the best ss24 couture looks
Fashion is back, baby! The Spring/Summer 2024 Couture week felt more exciting than it has in years. The highs were very high, and the lows were just meh, which is really all you can hope for. I have collected the best looks below to keep you all in the fashion loop. You’re welcome!
Schiaparelli:
Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli consistently sets a high bar as the opening show of the season, and is always my most anticipated. This collection was inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s obsession with astrology and the stars, and plays with the contradiction between old world techniques and space age references. Among the usual Schiaparelli house codes are western influences, a nod to Roseberry’s Texas roots.
Valentino:
Pierpaolo Piccioli continues to be a master of color and drama over at Valentino. Dependably one of the best every year, and this year followed suit.
Robert Wun:
Robert Wun is certainly the one to watch going forward. This was only his second showing at couture, and the collection was one of the most exciting of the week. That beaded bloody wedding dress is everything. I can’t wait to see who ends up getting to wear it.
Dior:
The ethos of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior is ultimately, wearability. The pieces are simple, with the focus being on the fabrics and construction. That lack of fantasy is probably great for the customer, but not as exciting to watch as a mere observer.
Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha:
Simone Rocha for Gaultier was exceptional. The collection was the perfect marriage of the Simone Rocha aesthetic and the JGP house codes. Provocative staples like the cone bra and corset were softened by Rocha’s girlish fairytale femininity.
Fendi:
The minimalist, elegant looks at Fendi were stunning. Kim Jones said he wanted to play into the element of futurism that the brand always had under Karl Lagerfeld. The sleek column “box” gowns are timeless, and I predict we will be seeing a lot of these Fendi looks show up on upcoming red carpets.
Giambattista Valli:
In my opinon, the styling was the star at floral-themed Giambattista Valli show this season. The gowns were great, but I loved all of the bows and roses in the hair. Roses seemed to keep showing up across many of the collections. Florals, for Spring? Dare I say, Groundbreaking.
Chanel:
In stark contrast, I think styling is the biggest problem at Chanel. Many of the pieces are beautiful, but you can’t see past the bad styling to appreciate them. The collection was a ballet-inspired celebration of the button, and I think these two looks that button up the front with tulle peeking out at the bottom are the best in the collection.
Maison Margiela:
This collection feels like we’ve gone back in time to the magical era of Galliano at Dior. This is what couture is supposed to be! It’s dramatic and scandalous, the type of fashion show that “normal people” will hate! Terrifyingly beautiful and strange. Pat McGrath’s porcelain doll makeup has taken over the internet (she is going live on Instagram to teach a masterclass on these looks tomorrow afternoon btw), or my side of the internet at least. This haunting show was the perfect close to the week, and a real sign that maybe we can get back to that place where artistry was center stage at fashion shows.
If you are reading this, thank you for making it through my very long newsletter! If this wasn’t enough fashion for you I have fantastic news: fashion month starts next week. Big slay. I’m still trying to decide exactly what I want to do to cover those shows. There are simply too many to do this format, but I’ll come up with something. I’ll be back in your inbox tomorrow for the Weekly Spill, so until then: au revoir, divas!